Welcome to Virginia
This story appears in Justsmile Issue 4,
There's Still So Much More.
Mehki Mckenzie covers Justsmile Issue 4, where Justsmile visits Pharell's hometown of Virginia Beach to place the Louis Vuitton SS'24 menswear collection back in the original context that inspired it.
Photography Bryce Thomas
Styling Kevin Hunter
Text Dominic Cadogan
What is the role of a creative director today? Historically, the position has been held by alumni of prestigious fashion schools – from Central Saint Martins to Parsons – but as the industry continues to morph and expand into the inescapable, all-encompassing behemoth it has become, are these parameters now redundant?
It’s a conundrum that first arose following the news of Pharrell Williams’ appointment as creative director for Louis Vuitton Men’s in February 2023 – succeeding the late Virgil Abloh, after his passing in November 2021.
Naysayers and netizens alike were quick to query why Williams had been selected by LVMH – with no formal design experience to speak of, despite creative endeavors with Chanel, Billionaire Boys Club, Moncler, adidas, and his skincare brand Humanrace – and continued to criticize in the lead up to his inaugural Spring/Summer 2024 show at Paris Fashion Week in June 2023.
One of the most anticipated debuts in years, it was easy to get engrossed in the shiny accoutrements of what can best be described as a leveling-up of the fashion show. An event of Super Bowlian proportions (at the time, it was viewed a mind-boggling one billion times), the front row boasted almost every name-to-know you could think of – Beyoncé, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Zendaya, LeBron James, Tyler, the Creator, Megan Thee Stallion, Naomi Campbell, Marcus Rashford, and Offset, just to name a few – while the post-show buzz comprised LV-wrapped burgers and performances from Jay-Z and Williams himself.
Yet, amid all the circular chatter and criticism, the devil was in the details, with Williams’ respectfully tipping his hat to his predecessor. Picking up the baton where Abloh left off, Blackness remained front and center, though in Williams’ hands, inspiration came from closer to home – namely his birthplace of Virginia.
With models marching out on the golden, Midasified Pont Neuf bridge – a stone’s throw from the house’s maison – the literal bridge represented a metaphorical connection between Paris to his hometown. In a VA state of mind, its slogan, ‘Virginia is for Lovers,’ was riffed on with ‘VA is for LVers’ and ‘Virginia is for LVers’ plastered across jackets that were monogrammed or appeared in a new pixelated camo print, he dubbed ‘damouflage’.
Elsewhere, the aural offerings of The Voices of Fire choir, all the way from VA – led by Williams’ uncle, Bishop Ezekiel Williams – and their euphoric chants of ‘Joy! Joy! Joy!’ morphed into ‘Chains & Whips’ by Virginia Beach hip-hop duo Clipse as the pair’s No Malice emerged on the runway alongside his brother, Pusha T.
Other references, however, were more subtle, ‘if you know, you know’ breadcrumbs easily missed by the untrained eye. Namely, an LV’d spin on a varsity jacket with a rhinestone ‘PA’ monogram, acknowledging his alma mater: Princess Anne High School. The starting point of his early creative footsteps – also attended by the Neptunes’ other half Chad Hugo – record producer Teddy Riley initially discovered Williams there at a talent show, and he has revisited countless times in the years since, paying homage to his roots.
For issue four of Justsmile editor-in-chief Kevin Hunter and creative director Bryce Thomas traveled to Virginia Beach to retrace Pharrell’s pre-Neptunes footsteps – from Princess Anne High School to his neighborhood, Atlantis – and place the Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 menswear collection back in the original context that inspired it. Featuring emerging faces from Virginia’s creative scene, flick through to find out exactly why Virginia is for Lovers, or as Williams puts it: “A state of mind founded in warmth, wellbeing and welcome-ness.”