Celine Homme Presents a Lyrical Daydream

As Hedi Slimane presents his 20th collection for Celine, Justsmile’s resident Slimane obsessive reviews the show through lyrics from its titular soundtrack ‘Losing My Edge’ by LCD Soundsystem.

Text by M-C Hill

Photo courtesy of Celine.

I'm losing my edge/I'm losing my edge to the kids from France and from London/But I was there

Hedi Slimane was there in July 2023, standing alone at La Gaité Lyrique. The Paris performance space was set to house Celine Homme’s 2024 show followed by a massive event featuring the legendary Peaches, Model/Actriz and Yves Tumor among other musicians. Slimane canceled both events to respect protests across the city after a fatal police shooting. As a fix, Slimane reverted back to his successful formula — fashion film.

I'm losing my edge to the Internet seekers/who can tell me every member of every good group from 1962 to 1978/I'm losing my edge

This latest collection found its ‘edge’ in Slimane’s 25-year codified aesthetic. Redolent in form is tailoring from his revolutionary Dior Homme era. Armholes resurfaced to rigorous heights. Shoulders on jackets deliciously hit deltoids again, marking the end of Celine Homme’s raglan period. Shimmering fabrications alongside satin transgressions recalled a time when men spoke in centimeters: 5, 6.5, 17.5, 19 or the dreaded 21. This was our native Slimane language communicating optimism over one massively glamorous salvo, a personal evolution that fans of menswear’s most strident voice no doubt salivated over.

I was there/I was the first guy playing Daft Punk to the rock kids/I played it at CBGB's/Everybody thought I was crazy/We all know/I was there

Celine Homme can only be executed through Hedi Slimane’s magic idealism from being a gimlet-eyed fan. It was he who threaded David Bowie, Alex Gopher, Bosco, Beck, Razorlight, Crack Cloud and Suicide into lyrical lines to construct modern music as mens’ fashion. Slimane wields the taste that emphasizes the importance of genuine arts and counter cultural collisions. Thankfully, he is a benevolent communicator. He simply does what he likes with the best intentions — dodging mainstream assumptions for fantastic noise from the underground. None of your fashion heroes were a DJ at Misshapes wearing a NASA tee, were they? Didn’t think so.

I'm losing my edge/to the art-school Brooklynites/in little jackets/and borrowed nostalgia for the unremembered eighties

‘Delusional Daydream’ could possibly be interpreted as a retort against lazy nostalgia. Boys lately have been performing tepid fit renditions of Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane cosplay. ‘Daydream’ affords the opportunity to observe time in ‘sci-fi’ reverse from past to present styles. These exits do not have the look of a time capsule. Nostalgia and poses turn modern here. The collection’s reverence of its past serves as a catalyst for a somewhat idealized future. 'Delusional Daydream’ does not cling to block-headed indie sleaze foolishness. Slimane propels that era forward with an avant-optimism blending of male and female sensibilities.

I've never been wrong/I used to work in the record store/I had everything before anyone/I was there in the Paradise Garage DJ booth with Larry Levan/I was there in Jamaica during the great sound clashes/I woke up naked on the beach in Ibiza in 1988

Interplay between ballet dancer Laurids Seidel and Celine Homme models recalls a 2010 Hedi Slimane film that contrasted an indie rock drummer’s solo and Oscar Nilsson, a ballet dancer. Slimane’s historic continuity between classical and contemporary influences is on fantastic display throughout ‘Delusional Daydream.’ Notice the duchesse satin bows that warp, wrap and mutate onto models, giving feminine feelings seen in historic collections from Paris couturiers Christian Lacroix and Yves Saint Laurent. Additionally, a quiet specter of Bobby Gillespie’s ghost (circa-1994) circles around the collection’s iridescent qualities.

I hear everybody that you know is more relevant than everybody that I know/But have you seen my records?/Eric B. and Rakim, Index, Basic Channel, Soulsonic Force, Juan Atkins, David Axelrod, Electric Prunes, Gil! Scott! Heron!, the Slits, Faust, Mantronix, Pharaoh Sanders and the Fire Engines, the Swans, the Soft Cell, the Sonics

Hedi Slimane’s social clientele is inarguable…

The 2007 photograph of Dash Snow, Dan Colen and Ryan McGinley sleeping lovingly in the same bed.

The Emmanuelle Alt shoot (same year!) which Hedi Slimane lensed featuring Banks Violette, Gardar Einarsson, Nate Lowman, Colen, McGinley and the icon Terence Koh.

Models past: Boyd Holbrook, David Lindwall, Vladimir Roitfeld, Jake Boyle, Phillip Bush, Cole Mohr, Ambrose Olsen and Randy Johnston

Models present: Artie Aylott, Kristoffer Wathne Rognø, Markus Steckhan, Tobias Vincentz, Kieran Dowling, Nicholas Goulden and Aaron Lewins

Kate Moss and Irina Lazareanu. Forever.

You don’t know what you really want

And so now you do: Celine Homme ‘Delusional Daydream’

IMAGES: Courtesy of Celine.

TEXT: M-C Hill

PUBLISHED: December 1st 2024